Training Day

SILLY SHENANIGANS OF A BIG ROUTE CLIMBER, LIVING IN LANDER, WYOMING: Yesterday, I decided to try to climb a day of 5.12s.  The real goal of the day was training for trying hard on big routes. But is was also a training mission for the more arbitrary goal of sending 12 x 12's in a day. I don't usually like to share these goals, but yesterday there was so much stoke to support me on my training day and it kept me really motivated! So I thought maybe it would be good to share.

On a training day, it is good to reflect on what could've gone better. *This is not beating myself up, as I am quite proud of my effort!  AND, here are a few things to remember for next time:

1. MAKE SURE TO TAKE THE TIME TO WARM-UP WELL. I did my usual 5.10 warm ups, but skipped the .11+ crimpy route (sunspot) because it "doesn't count as .12." Normally, I would go to Bush Doctor, the .12 that I know the best and is easiest for me, but it was still too cold in the shade. So I opted for the sunny route, which happens to be probably the hardest of the routes that I would do all day: Hypernova. It has a very crimpy crux that I don't know very well. I had to try too hard for the send and I got flash-pumped. I then had to take about an hour of rest.

2. HAVE PLENTY OF TIME. I took my time through the first half of the day (because it was cold in the morning, then because I had botched my warm-up), then I wound up having to rapid fire at the end of the day, leading to my first falls of the day.

Which brings me to 3: STRATEGY FOR WHICH ROUTES TO DO WHEN. I wound up getting on one of the routes that I hadn't done in over a year at the end of the day, Mergatroid. It also probably has the next most difficult (after Hypernova) boulder sequence of any of the routes: about 3 bolts straight of tiny crimps with bad feet. It was essentially an onsight burn (a year ago for beta on a route that I had done only a couple of times is basically totally new terrain for my goldfish-like beta memory ability.) I messed up the sequence and gassed-out trying to lock off on dime edges. I worked out the beta, but only rested for a few minutes because the day was drawing to a close. Then my foot slipped on the first few moves on the next go. *sigh*. I got right back on and fired through most of the crux, but did a long move before getting my right foot up and alas, was too tired to pull out of the full extension (See point number 2). Too rushed to dial the beta in perfectly and too tired to not climb it perfectly. 🤷🏻‍♀️ Oh well!

4: GET TO KNOW THE ROUTES BETTER. I wouldn't say this was particularly an error, learning the routes was a secondary intention of the day. But now I have another plan: at the end of my project days, I will go refine beta on a 5.12 for next time!

5: TRY F***ING HARD. I do believe I actually checked this box – I was pumped and had to fight, almost falling on three of the pitches that I didn’t remember the beta on. That fight is part of what I love about rock climbing! So this is the final point on the list of “need to remember it for next time.”

I woke up last night with my fingers throbbing, but I’m one step closer to 12x.12s: I did 7x.12s with no falls in around 6 hours. Hypernova, Palladin, Bush Doctor, Bloody Endeavor (pictured, photo by Nate Liles), The Wilds, Achin’ for Booty, and Purple Galaxy. Thanks to Grace and Dennis for the belays and encouragement! And for all the fist bumps and cheers, from the Killer Cave to the Wilds! ❤️ the Sinks crew!